Three brands account for most of the denim that walks off our floor: Wrangler, Ariat, and Kimes Ranch. People come in knowing they want western jeans, but can't always tell which pair actually fits the way they need it to. We've been doing this for over 70 years. Here's what you need to know.
The short answer
- Wrangler if you want heavyweight, traditional denim at a reasonable price, especially for riding and working.
- Ariat if you want stretch, comfort, and a light-weight breathable denim
- Kimes Ranch are all about fit, style, and branding
All three are real western denim. The difference is what matters most to you.
At a glance
|
Wrangler |
Ariat |
Kimes Ranch |
|
|---|---|---|---|
|
Price at Wei's |
$55 to $105 |
$130 to $250 |
$160 to $240 |
|
Denim weight |
14.75 oz on the 13MWZ |
Around 12 oz, often with stretch |
13 to 13.75 oz, ring-spun |
|
Rise |
High |
Low to mid |
Mid to low on men's, mid to high on women's |
|
Stretch |
None on the classics |
Common |
Some styles, most core men's fits are 100% cotton |
|
Best for |
Riding, working, tradition |
Comfort, long days on your feet |
Fit, looks, all-day wear |
Wrangler: The Working Standard
The 13MWZ Cowboy Cut is the benchmark every other western jean gets measured against, and it hasn't changed since 1947.
At 14.75 oz, Wrangler's classic denim is heavier than what you'll get from the other two brands. It's 100% cotton, holds its shape, takes abuse, and wears in rather than wearing out. The high rise and generous leg opening are designed to sit over a boot without bunching. Fully felled side seams keep the inside seam from chewing up your leg in the saddle.
You're getting a lot of jean for around $70. Not all Wranglers are built the same, either. The ones we carry have proper rivets, the real Wrangler patch and heavier denim, none of which you'll find on the big-box versions. What you're giving up is comfort out of the box. The rigid Wranglers we sell for around $55 are stiff for the first few wears. Some people love that. If you're not one of them, go with the prewashed version.
One thing to watch: Wrangler makes a lot of jeans, and not all of them are cowboy cut. The Retro, 20X and George Strait lines tend to run slimmer through the seat and thigh and sit lower than the 13MWZ. If you want the traditional cowboy fit, make sure you're leaving with the 13MWZ.
Get Wrangler if: you're riding, working, want heavyweight cotton, prefer a high rise, or go through jeans fast enough that price matters.
Ariat: Comfort First
Ariat came into denim from the performance side, and it shows. Stretch blends, lower rises, and more forgiving fits make Ariat the easiest of the three to wear all day.
Their fit system can be confusing, so here's the simple version: M2 and M4 are traditional and relaxed fits, while M5, M7 and M8 progressively move toward slimmer cuts. M4 is a particularly common choice for a relaxed western fit.
Most Ariat denim is around 12 oz, lighter than Wrangler, and much of it has stretch. That's the trade. You lose some of the structure and break-in character of heavy rigid denim, but you gain a pair you can wear on concrete for ten hours without thinking about it.
Ariat also carries a serious flame-resistant work line, including the FR M4 and lightweight DuraStretch.
Get Ariat if: you're working hard all day, want stretch, prefer a lower rise, want a more familiar jeans feel, or need FR-rated denim.
Kimes Ranch: The Modern Fit
Kimes is the newcomer of the three and has moved fastest on our floor. We were early on the brand, and Wei's is now one of the top independent Kimes retailers in Canada. The reason is simple: fit.
When Matt and Amanda Kimes started the brand in 2009, western denim was generally cut conservatively. Kimes went the other way: slimmer legs, cleaner finishing, darker washes, and fits designed around how people actually want western jeans to look today. On the women's side that meant solving the complaint every western denim shopper knows: room through the hip and seat without gapping at the waist.
The fabric is another part of the appeal. Kimes uses ring-spun yarn in a 3x1 right-hand twill, giving the denim more texture and character as it wears. At 13 to 13.75 oz, it sits between Wrangler and Ariat: substantial enough to hold its shape without feeling like you're putting on armor.
Most core men's jeans are 100% cotton with no stretch. Stretch feels good on day one and quits around month eight, once the jean has relaxed a size and won't come back. Cotton molds to you and stays there.
The Dillon is the one to know. It has a relaxed upper thigh, mid-to-low rise and an 18-inch boot opening, making it particularly good with broader square-toe boots.
You're also paying for the finishing. Tonal stitching, hand-sanded fading and better hardware give Kimes a cleaner look than a traditional work jean. They also carry more unique washes, like acid wash, than your traditional western jean. It's denim you can wear to work and not feel like you need to change before going out.
Get Kimes if: fit and appearance matter most, you've had trouble with waist gaps or jeans that lose their shape, or you want western denim that works equally well at work and out.
Denim weight, and what it actually tells you
Denim weight is quoted constantly and understood rarely. It's the number of ounces in a square yard of fabric. Heavier denim is generally stiffer, warmer, more structured and slower to break in. It also tends to handle abrasion better. Lighter denim is easier to wear immediately, especially when combined with stretch.
Wrangler's 14.75 oz 13MWZ is heavyweight. Kimes at 13 to 13.75 oz is solidly midweight, with ring-spun yarn adding strength and texture. Ariat at around 12 oz is the lightest and generally the most comfortable straight out of the box.
None of those numbers make a jean good or bad. A 14.75 oz rigid jean is the wrong answer for someone working ten hours in a warehouse. A 12 oz stretch jean isn't what we'd send someone breaking horses.
Match the denim to the day.
How they run
Wrangler is the most straightforward. Buy your usual size. If you're buying rigid denim, factor in some shrinkage, particularly in length.
Ariat runs closest to a mainstream jean, and the stretch makes it more forgiving between sizes.
Kimes generally runs slimmer through the thigh, particularly in the men's slim fits. If you're between sizes or have bigger legs, consider sizing up or starting with a relaxed cut like the Dillon. Women's Kimes fits are more specific, so trying on two sizes is worth it.
Length matters more in western denim than in almost any other type of jeans. You want the jean stacking over the vamp of the boot, not stopping at the top of the shaft. For most western boots, buying one to two inches longer than you would in a fashion jean is a good starting point.
So which one?
- Riding, roping or working outside? Wrangler 13MWZ.
- Ten hours on concrete and comfort matters most? Ariat.
- Need FR-rated denim? Ariat, no contest.
- Want the best combination of fit and looks and price isn't the deciding factor? Kimes Ranch.
- Shopping women's western denim and tired of waist gaps? Kimes Ranch.
- Buying your first pair and not sure? Start with a Wrangler 13MWZ or Ariat M4. Both are easy to live with and will tell you what you actually want from your next pair.
Any of these three will hold up. The question is which one matches how you actually spend your day; pull on all three and you'll know inside a minute.